Archive for the 'Ask Our Experts' Category

Sublime Cheesecakes

It seems every country has a cheesecake – Australia has the gelatine cheesecake, America has the baked, Italy’s is the ricotta or mascapone cheesecake, while France’s is the flatter, neufchatel cheesecake, Germany has quark flans and the list goes on! Perhaps there are so many variations because they’re not only densely, richly delicious but also, incredibly easy to make.  

Cheesecakes are basically a dense baked custard – a mix of cream cheese, cream and eggs baked at a low temperature. You can use any cheese you like – just as long as you give it enough structure to support its fat and water content – and any filling or topping can be used. Think nuts, rosewater, fruit in any form, chocolate, whiskey, raisins, maple syrup – the options are endless.

A stand alone, crust-free cheesecake also makes a great gluten free dessert – the eggs are what bind cheesecakes so no flour is required, although some cheesecakes include cornflour to stabilise the cream mix. The only exception is ricotta where flour is needed to soak up the moisture in the cheese.

If you’re going for a base, there are several different options. I grew up with a version of the Eastern European cheesecake (now considered a New York cheesecake), a lemony baked cheesecake with a sour cream topping and no biscuit base. In Australia however, the biscuit base is an essential part of the cheesecake ensemble and is commonly made using digestive wheat biscuits. I prefer to pre-bake the base to increase its crispness and add a pinch of cinnamon to complement the sweetness. A sponge base (and top) is another alternative as is a nut crumble base and top.

 

 

Mixing Tips

* Beat cheese with a paddle attachment to remove lumps before adding other ingredients. In fact, never blend any two ingredients of different consistencies together without first softening the firmer ingredient to the consistency of the other. The exception is mascarpone which will turn lumpy if overbeaten.

* Beat ingredients slowly and only until evenly mixed. Overbeating incorporates too much air and will cause the cake to rise too high too quickly whilst baking.  As a precaution, tap the prepared cake tin on a bench top to remove any air bubbles before placing it in the oven.

* To avoid overbeating, have your ingredients at room temperature before starting. This reduces the risk of overbeating to reach the right consistency.

* If you prefer a lighter version, separate the eggs in your recipe, whipping up the whites with a bit of sugar then fold through the cheese mix.

 

 

Baking Tips

* Bake cheesecakes slowly at a low temperature. This will allow steam to release gradually and evenly.

* Don’t overbake cheesecakes. Overbaking dries them out causing the cake to shrink and crack.

* Cheesecakes prefer the even temperature of conventional ovens. If using a fan forced oven, reduce the temperature.

* Leave cheesecakes to cool in a switched off oven to allow for gradual cooling and less shrinkage.  If you can’t leave the cake in the oven to cool down, take it cake out while its still quite wobbly in the centre as cream based cakes tend to continue cooking as they cool down.

 

 

Serving

* Always serve cakes at room temperature. Depending on the weather, take your cheesecake out of fridge with enough time to give the ingredients time to relax and release the flavours.

* Use a wet knife to de-mould cheesecakes and to cut into slices. Preferably, dip the knife in warm water and wipe clean between each cut.

 

 

Looking for a delicious cheesecake recipe to test out your newly acquried skills? Click here for the beautiful Berry Compote Cheesecake recipe by our Baker!

 

If you have a question for our baker, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Yael Shohat is the Executive Director of Yael’s Cakes of Distinction, 23 Clevedon Street, Botany, 02 9695 1695 

Published on October 16, 2008 in Baker. Closed

Free Range Pork

Q: What is the value of buying free-range pork instead of commercially farmed pork?

A: I am frequently asked this question, so when recently down in Melbourne, I decided to pay a quick visit to the farm that supplies me with my free-range pork to do a bit more investigating.

It is important to note that there exists two types of free range pork – ‘free range’ and ‘free range bred’. The majority of pork sold in a retail environment is ‘free range bred’ which, in short, means that the sows are raised in open paddocks and their offspring roam free for three weeks. After that, they are housed in a large barn not dissimilar to those used in a commercial farming operation. Free range, on the other hand, forgoes the commercial barn element of breeding.

Personally, I have very little influence over a person’s preference in pork, but I do believe it is my role to furnish customers with facts that enable them to make a well-informed choice, and ultimately end up with the best quality meat for their needs, both from a taste and ethical perspective.

In a recent survey and taste test undertaken in my butcher shop, 90% of participants could not distinguish which samples were free range and which were not. Even more interesting, however, was that 75% of the customers preferred the taste of the pork that was commercially grown.

In essence, the answer (without sounding glib) comes down to a personal choice – as far as taste and quality goes, there’s not a great deal of difference.

 

If you have a question for our butcher, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Glen Viller is the proprietor of Black Bull Butchery, Shop 4, 50-58 Macleay Street, Potts Point 02 9331 3533 

Published on September 10, 2008 in Butcher. Closed

Meringue Magic

By Yael Shohat

Meringues; those airy, sweet, sometimes crispy, sometimes chewy concoctions are made by beating egg whites and sugar in one of three ways:

 

Italian: This style meringue is made by slowly drizzling a sugar syrup into egg whites as they’re beating. This creates a soft, spreadable meringue suited to icing or piping cakes or adding to butter icings.

 

Swiss: Swiss meringue is made by beating egg whites and sugar over hot water. It is a little more fiddly, but the heat gives the meringue more volume. The result is a sturdier meringue which can be piped or spread onto baking paper, baked and then used in much the same way as a layer of sponge would be used as a base on which to layer other fillings, icings and mousses.

 

meringue

French: The easiest meringue (for a change!) to make is French. Here, it’s as simple as adding sugar gradually to egg whites as they are being whipped.

 

The fun part about meringue is that depending on how much sugar you use, you can create different textures – soft, hard, chewy or a blend – and add a myriad of different flavours. Combine them with nuts, fruit, chocolate, coconut or hundreds and thousands; whatever takes your fancy! Because of their sweetness, I usually combine meringues with tart or acidic flavours, like grapefruit, lemon and passionfruit.

 

Meringues are also one of the easiest things to bake. If you break it down, you’re really only using 2 ingredients, and if they don’t rise, it’s not the end of the world; simply crush the meringue and add the crumbs to whipped cream and fruit. And, as meringues are baked at a very low temperature, you can even turn the oven off and leave them there to crisp overnight. What other baked product allows for such laissez faire?

 

 

Here’s a few tips to keep in mind, before getting started.

 

* For a soft meringue, use less sugar – usually an equal amount of sugar to egg whites. For crisper meringues, you can use up to twice as much sugar as egg whites. I usually use caster sugar, but if you prefer to use brown sugar, you’ll need to sieve the sugar as it is moister.

 

* To get the best volume out of our egg whites, make sure there is no grease or fat on the inside of the mixing bowl or on the whisk you are using. Fats inhibit the egg whites from foaming and aerating.

 

* Egg whites also foam better at room temperature, so take them out of the fridge well before whipping time. If you forget, stick them in a warm (not hot) bowl of water and stir them while they’re warming.

 

* Don’t over-beat the egg whites. They should be moist and shiny, not dry and curdled. Over-beating makes it harder to fold them into other ingredients and reduces their capacity to act as a leavener.

 

* Cream of tartar, lemon juice, vinegar, and other mild acids can also be added to egg whites to increase their volume and stability. These are usually added when your egg whites are going to be folded into other ingredients in a cake. Make sure to add them early on and stick to the measurements – you’ll taste the sourness if you get too heavy handed.

 

* Undissolved sugar crystals weigh meringue down, weakening it. Once baked, the crystals attract moisture and form a cooked brown syrup on the surface of the meringue. For this reason, it’s important to add sugar slowly, giving it time to melt between additions. Personally though, I love that river of sugar on a baked meringue!

 

* And finally, save egg yolks for glazing tops of pies and sausage rolls or, for adding to a cake recipe for an extra blast of flavour.

 

Click here for our Baker’s delicious recipe Meringue Sponge Cake with Passion Fruit Curd

 

If you have a question for our baker, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Yael Shohat is the Executive Director of Yael’s Cakes of Distinction, 23 Clevedon Street, Botany, 02 9695 1695

Published on September 3, 2008 in Baker. Closed

Perfect Pastry

As daunting as it may sound, making perfect pastry is only a splash of dust and a rolling pin away…

By Yael Shohat

 

Basically a mixture of fat, flour & water moulded together, pastry is a delicious way to encase any winter fare – be it an original recipe or yesterday’s leftovers.There are many different types of pastry, all of which use various forms and quantities of fat – butter, lard, margarine; and liquids – eggs, water, milk.

‘Cool hasty hands make warm pies’ is an old saying meaning everything to do with pastry should be cold and worked as quickly as possible – use cold ingredients, utensils and surfaces (which explains why professionals use marble) and process your mix quickly. This prevents the gluten reacting too early, somthing which will cause the pastry to shrink while cooking, or will toughen the texture.

 

pastry Shortcrust pastry

Due to its sturdiness, shortcrust is the most commonly used pastry and can be used for either sweet or savoury dishes. It also combines well with other ingredients such as grated cheese, sour cream, ground nuts, herbs and spices which change the taste and texture of the pastry. Shortcrust is great as a quiche base or as a home for meat pies and pasties.

Sweetcrust pastry

Sweetcrust pastry is basically a shortcrust pastry with sugar and egg added for greater richness and flavour, and as the name suggests, is mainly used for flans, sweet pies and tarts.

Puff pastry

Puff pastry (also a sweet and savoury interchangeable) is the one we tend to buy ready made as it’s the most laborious to make. But give it a go and the result will be very worthwhile! Once steam hits the butter dotted between the rolled and folded layers of pastry, it aerates the batter to create deliciously crisp layers of thin, buttery pastry. For best results, this pastry must to be made with masses of my favourite ingredient – butter of course!

Unfortunately, not all commercial products are made using butter. If a pastry you’re eating tastes waxy, it is probably because it was made using margarine, shortening or lard… yuck! If you use butter, both the initial taste and aftertaste is subtle and pleasant. So don’t scrimp, you’re only sacrificing the flavour.

 

If you have a question for our baker, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Yael Shohat is the Executive Director of Yael’s Cakes of Distinction, 23 Clevedon Street, Botany, 02 9695 1695

Published on August 7, 2008 in Baker. Closed

Real Ingredients

Cake expert Yael Shohat shares the virtues of baking with only the best

 

I spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about food – walking up supermarket isles, reading ingredient lists, checking out new products. But as I wander around food markets and see such great, fresh ingredients, I wonder, why there is so much fake food around?

When it comes to cakes, as with all food, using fresh ingredients makes the world of difference – real butter and real eggs, as a minimum, and cane sugar, couveture chocolate and fresh fruits. Having baked cakes professionally for over 15 years (and what we bake is not haute cuisine), the most frequent remark is about the quality of flavour, and of texture – and all this comes from using real ingredients.

Unfortunately, the majority of cakes available in supermarkets, and increasingly in many cafes, are made with a premix, just like the packet mixes you buy in the supermarket. When this level of patisserie becomes the norm however, so does the price, making unprocessed, top quality cakes seem overpriced by comparison. But really, it’s like comparing apples to thongs!

 

Butter Basics

 

The most important ingredient no cake maker can live without is butter – there is nothing quite like it. Margarine doesn’t even come close! While margarine has the same fat content as butter, it has none of the flavour. Oil can be used in some recipes, but unlike butter and margarine, it has no air content, which is important to help lighten cakes and carry the other ingredients. Butter, on the other hand, is perfect, giving cake its moistness & volume, not to mention its sensational taste.

Lets face it, it’s much easier to create a delicious cake with real ingredients – they are full of flavour even before you start. And if you’re going to have your cake, why not have something you really want to eat too.

 

If you have a question for our baker, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Yael Shohat is the Executive Director of Yael’s Cakes of Distinction, 23 Clevedon Street, Botany, 02 9695 1695

Published on July 3, 2008 in Baker. Closed

Gourmet Snags

Q: Is there a significant difference between sausages you buy in a supermarket and the wide range of gourmet sausages which are becoming more prevalent in the butcher shop?

Glen the Butcher: Being an independent butcher, there is a risk that my view on the subject may be biased. However in the name of professionalism I will do my best to stay objective.

In fairness one has to point out that you need to compare apples with apples. As my mother says "you only get what you pay for." Price is a good indicator, and the price of sausages between some local butcher shops and your suburban supermarket can be quite comparable, with the quality of product being fairly similar. Your next level, however, is your top quality butcher who will use fresh ingredients, create gluten-free mixes, amongst others, and will also enforce quality control. This does come at an escalated price, but the outcome is a superior, and in my opinion, much
nicer product.

 

If you have a question for our butcher, email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au. Glen Viller is the proprietor of Black Bull Butchery, Shop 4, 50-58 Macleay Street, Potts Point 02 9331 3533

Published on July 3, 2008 in Butcher. Closed

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed

Q: What’s the difference between farmed and wild-caught seafood?

A: There are a couple of different arguments as to the pros and cons of both farmed and wild-caught seafood, particularly as it relates to sustainability. In Australia however, strict legal requirements has seen the implementation of environmentally responsible practices in both, making it really a matter of preference. You will however, notice distinct differences in taste, colour and texture, but again, it’s a question of what you prefer, or what you’re accustomed to. Size also plays a role, with restrictions placed on the minimum size of wild-caught fish. So if you’re a restaurant for example, and don’t want to serve a big, whole fish, you’ll probably go for a farmed fish.

For cultivated seafood, you’re most likely familiar with Tasmanian salmon, ocean trout, and of course, the always popular Tiger prawns. But Southern Blue Fin tuna is another great choice. On the wild-caught side, for sensational taste and great quality go for barramundi and prawn varieties such as King prawns.

We’re so lucky here in Australia to have such a diverse selection, not only of farmed and wild-caught seafood, but seafood types in general. From a fishmonger’s perspective, the health benefits you’ll get from regularly eating seafood make whatever you select a good choice. So go for what you like, or if in doubt, ask your local fishmonger.

If you have a question for our fishmonger email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au.
Barry Hermes is the proprietor of Hermes Famous Seafood, Shop 24-25 Eastgate Shopping Centre, Bondi Junction 02 9387 6247

Published on May 1, 2008 in Fishmonger. Closed

Adding flavour to soup

This autumn, think smoked bones and sinewy cuts for soups full of earthy, heart-warming flavour.

 

By Glen Viller


I can feel a changing of the seasons happening. It is not the decline in temperature, or the clothing people are starting to wear. Instead, it is the questions I am being asked over the meat counter. With autumn now here, I’m constantly asked, "What is the best meat for soup?" But with so many styles and flavours of soup out there, the answer is not as simple as you would think. The good news however, is that you have a lot of options. So let’s take a look at some of your choices…

Remember that the meat is usually only being added for aiding flavour rather than for quantity

Chicken: My first stop in the chicken section is with the thighs as they are the meatiest option. Chicken thighs also add more flavour to soup, and unlike breasts, won’t dry out quickly. For the best results, go for chicken Maryland, which is the thigh and drumstick attached. Chicken wings or drumsticks are a nice addition to thighs as they contain both meat and bones.

Beef shin on the bone: Beef shin has it all – naturally rich flavour from the meat and added flavour from the bone marrow. It is also one of the cheaper cuts of beef available, making it superb value for money.
Gravy beef: When boneless beef is called for, this your preferred cut. Gravy beef has the benefit of containing a bit more fat and sinew than other cuts, which adds flavour and gives a better finished texture.

Chuck beef: Your leaner option, but still suitable for slow cooking.

Pork bones: These are a specialty these days, although your local butcher should be able to set some aside for you for that special occasion.

Ham hock: Ideal for Pea and Ham Soup, ham hock is a pork shank containing plenty of meat and bone. It also has a strong, yet delicious smokey flavour and is an economic way of adding flavour to your soup.
Smoked Ribs: Great for many ethnic dishes that need extra flavour, but without the additional meat.

Bacon bones: Like smoked ribs, bacon bones have been removed from the flesh. They are usually smoked independently and offer a very economical way of adding flavour if extra is needed.

When selecting the right type of meat for your soup, just remember that the meat is for adding flavour, not bulk, and plays second fiddle to the soup itself. If in doubt, just ask your local butcher.

If you have a question for our butcher email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au
Glen Viller is the proprietor of Black Bull Butchery, Shop 4, 50-58 Macleay St, Potts Point 02 9331 3533

Published on May 1, 2008 in Butcher. Closed

Greek Delights

Take inspiration from the Mediterranean when you’re planning your next seafood feast.

By Barry Hermes

Hello, and ‘gia sas’ to you all! As a Greek-Australian, this month’s focus on Greek food has very special meaning to me. The food of Greece is deliciously rich in its diversity, and being a Mediterranean culture, has a strong focus on seafood. For a fishmonger, you can’t get much better than that.

So this month, let me share some local secrets passed on to me by family still living in Greece.

Prawns

There’s no doubt about it, Greeks love prawns. This is evident in the many prawn-based dishes you’ll find in traditional Greek cuisine. For one of their most famous, try Prawn Saganaki, a flambéed mix of prawns, wine, tomato, oregano, parsley, feta, brandy and Tabasco sauce. When buying prawns, go for the green ones – you can buy them whole to peel yourself, or you can buy the pre-peeled variety. I also like to use tiger prawn cutlets and I often store a couple of bags in my freezer for when unexpected guests drop buy. They are extremely versatile and they taste great. Green King Prawns and Banana Prawns are also good options.

Red Mullet

The most popular fish in Greece is ‘Parpouni’, known in Australia as Red Mullet. Baring no relation to Grey Mullet, Red Mullet is a small red fish with a high fat content, which gives it a distinctly sweet taste. Its white flesh, combined with its flavour, has made it a favourite not just in Greece, but all throughout the Mediterranean. Red Mullet can be grilled, but being a small fish, it is more commonly fried. Simply roll it in flour, pan-fry it in olive oil for 3 minutes on each side and voila. Serve it as is with a wedge of lemon and salt. Just make sure to have it cleaned by your fishmonger when you buy it.

Silver Bream

One of my father’s favourite meals is ‘Tsipoures sta Karvouna’, a dish of Silver Bream smoked over charcoal. If you are like me and only have a gas barbecue, you can use a smoker box – the result will be similar. Simply cook on your barbecue for five minutes on each side, using water to refresh. Done correctly, the outside of the bream will have a tasty, crusty skin and the white fleshy inside will be bright and still moist. When choosing silver bream, look out for smaller, lighter coloured fish. Your fishmonger will be able to advise you also.

Kali Orexi! (That’s Greek for bon appetit!)


If you have a question for our fishmonger email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au.

Barry Hermes is the proprietor of Hermes Famous Seafood, Shop 24-25 Eastgate Shopping Centre, Bondi Junction 02 9387 6247

Published on April 20, 2008 in Fishmonger. Closed

Succulent Sashimi

Super sushi and sashimi start with sashimi-grade fish.

 
By Barry Hermes

 

A Japanese delicacy, sashimi consists of thin slices of fish served deliciously raw. But, the quality of sashimi can vary greatly depending on what fish you buy. So, when preparing for a sashimi feast, always stick to sashimi-grade fish for the best results. It’s a quality standard given to only the highest grade and best cuts of fish.

Sashimi-grade fish is usually fresh, or alternatively, has been frozen to at least minus 20°C for a minimum of 24 hours. It is a common misconception that all sashimi served is fresh, however, this is not always the case. In Japan, where sashimi is avidly consumed, it is not uncommon to pay over $10,000 for a whole frozen tuna, for use in the finest Japanese restaurants. The freezing process can be of great value, killing parasites that are found in certain fish, especially freshwater varieties. It also ensures that the freshness is locked in for its journey from the sea to the fishmonger.

In Australia, we are extremely fortunate. Sashimi tuna, for example, is almost always served fresh and the variety of fresh product available to us is of amazing quality. Other types of fish suitable for sashimi available in Australia include farmed Tasmanian Atlantic Salmon, Yellowtail Kingfish, Snapper and Yellowtail or Albacore Tuna.

And, while you can store sashimi in the fridge, don’t leave it too long. Sashimi is best eaten straight away, when it’s at its freshest with soy sauce, wasabi and ginger. Sashimi-grade fish is also a great choice for carpaccio – just slice the flesh more finely. If your knife skills are not so good, press the fish with the back of your knife to flatten and serve with a drizzle of lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper.

So, this summer, create your very own sashimi extravaganza right at home by heading to your nearest fishmonger.


If you have a question for our fishmonger email us at editorial@foodinfocus.com.au.

Barry Hermes is the proprietor of Hermes Famous Seafood, Shop 24-25 Eastgate Shopping Centre, Bondi Junction 02 9387 6247

Published on April 20, 2008 in Fishmonger. Closed