Archive for the 'Wine' Category

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Wine on a Vine

Weekday quaffing has never looked better with these top-value, top-quality wines.

By Patrick Haddock

It seems that everything is going up these days; petrol, fruit and veg, interest rates, even wine. Personally, I’m happy to forego the price of fruit for wine because, lets face it, there’s a lot more fun to be had indulging in grapes in their liquid form.

For the last few years we’ve had it easy in bottle shops – we’ve seen the rise and fall of cleanskins (thankfully); and we’ve watched greedy wine duopolies trying to undercut each other (but at the same time demeaning their brands). More importantly however, we’ve got used to paying under $15 for top quality booze.

But now the doom-mongers are ringing the alarm bells and the abundant glut is no more. In some ways this is a good outcome – although yields are down thanks to droughts, fires and frost (all sounds ominously biblical to me although we are yet to see plagues of locusts in the Barossa!), the upside to the lack of fruit means better quality in what has been picked. Although thanks to the scarcity of premium grapes, the powers that be have no choice but to put their prices up.

Does that mean the world of weekday quaffing is over? No, of course not. You’ve just got to know where to find it. There’s still extraordinary value to be found, especially in the sub $10-$15 category, with winemakers ensuring that people really do get bang for there buck and employing techniques normally reserved for wines of twice the price.

Just one sip of any of these budget wines we’ve selected and you’ll realise that life ain’t so bad. In fact, you will be rejoicing in the fact that we live in a country of bountiful bargain booze!

Pewsey Vale Riesling 2007
Winemaker Louisa Rose can do no wrong with Riesling and this is one of Australia’s most consistent sub $15 whites. Typically Eden Valley with aromas of sherbet, grapefruit and lime marmalade with a mineral edge. The taut palate is all lime and lemon with a slight spritz and a backbone of fresh, balanced acids.

 

Taylors Shiraz 2006
This little gem from the Clare Valley has already picked up three gold medals, which is great news if you like gold stickers on your bottles. Typical Clare Valley on the nose, all dark chocolate, plums and licorice. The generous palate rewards with blackberry fruit, spice and mocha. It’s balanced and has excellent length.


De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2007
Hard to believe that you can get a Pinot Noir under $10, let alone one that could rival wines twice its price. Could this be the nation’s best quaffer? De Bortoli have applied their winemaking alchemy across their whole range and this Pinot is all cherries, strawberry and spice. The palate rewards with vibrant berries, great weight and surprising length. Buy a case immediately!

 

Hanwood Chardonnay
McWilliam’s maestro winemaker Jim Brayne is the "Braynes" behind this very smart chardy. This multi-regional wonder is a consistent medal winner and beats the under $10 competition hands down. Aromas of peach, melon and butterscotch oak dominate. These continue on the palate which is creamy with excellent length and a solid acid backbone.

Published on May 1, 2008 in Wine. Closed

To BYO or not to BYO

That is the question… on Sydney dinners’ lips. FoodinFocus asks the experts.

By Jo Stubberfield

Cheap and cheerful? Or a dining experience to remember? We asked three industry professionals to think about Sydney dining, and whether there is any competition between BYO and the sommelier. Steve Whitbread is the sommelier at The Four in Hand Dining Room in Paddington, and has worked at Wildfire, Lucio’s, and Guillaume at Bennelong. Marco Taddeo is a wine distributor for Akkerman Rare Wines, and has had stints in several Sydney restaurants such as The Bentley, Otto, and Bambini Wine Room. And Chris Morrison has done time in restaurants such as bel mondo, est and Quay, and is well-known as a wine show judge, keynote speaker, educator and wine writer.

 

The rise of the sommelier in Sydney’s hospitality scene during the last 20 years has resulted in some fine wine lists and dining experiences across the market. However, due to the cost of a liquor license, many good restaurants are unlicensed and remain BYO. Think Wasavie, Vamps, Phamish, Il Barretto, Prasits Thai, and Bar Reggio. This is great for diners, who can choose between BYO and minimal corkage charges, or restaurants with a sommelier and an expertly created wine list to suit the restaurant’s food. But while you can save money on marked-up wines when you BYO, you might miss out on more than a few dollars.

 
Restaurants need to mark-up their wines because they actually make very little profit from food. The luxuries of tablecloths, good glassware and decanters, specialist staff and excellent produce, do not come cheaply. You can take an excellent wine to a BYO restaurant, but if it’s poured into warm latte glasses you’re really not getting the best from the bottle. Decanting is also rarely an option.

 
And the mark-up is not standard across all wine, meaning some purchases are better value for money than others. Steve Whitbread explains, "Wines by the glass are generally marked up more because of wastage, and champagne and expensive bottles are often marked up less as the percentage dollar profit is higher. Generally wines I’m personally fond of get marked up less because I want to encourage people to try them."

 
It is this passion for educating that indicates a good sommelier. With in-depth knowledge on history, terroir, regions, and style, wine lists are usually crafted with care, providing wines that suit the cuisine. And as anyone who has had a wine-matched degustation can attest, good food and wine pairing can transform a dining experience. A sommelier can advise on the wine for each course, and provide invaluable expertise in choosing wine that will be suitable for the whole table, across several dishes. And, as Steve Whitbread points out, "Exploration of less mainstream regions and varieties can add a point of difference and fun to your list which is what it’s about in the end."

 
Quite often these wines are unavailable to the public. Restaurants are allocated small parcels of stock from specific wineries, as restaurants usually only need smaller quantities. As Marco Taddeo says, "These are usually quality and rare wines, hence the justification on price. It’s hard for private people to find these wines without contacts in the industry, and it’s time consuming." Yet it’s not impossible. Fine wine specialists like Ultimo Wine Centre supply many of the city’s best restaurants and private buyers, and the staff’s knowledge can match what a sommelier can provide in a restaurant. Although, as Chris Morrison is quick to add, "Product knowledge differs from wine knowledge – many guys don’t know much outside their own brands, but a few are a fantastic resource."

 
Apart from price, availability and knowledge, there are other factors surrounding BYO and sommeliers. There is also BYO etiquette. It’s polite to confirm a restaurant is BYO before you drag a carton out of the car. And even licensed restaurants that don’t encourage BYO will allow a ‘special’ bottle for an occasion, providing it’s aged, expensive or rare. A cheap bottle with sentimental value is not really appropriate to take to a good restaurant with a well-considered wine list. And if the restaurant is prepared to forgo some of their profit margin to allow your BYO bottle, it’s a nice gesture to buy a wine on the list as well.

Private Practice

What our experts practice in private…


"I like to BYO if I can and I’m willing to pay whatever corkage is asked if I want to drink something great (from my cellar), however I’m also more than happy to sit down to dinner at a place with an interesting list that represents good value – which can be hard to find a lot of the time." Steve Whitbread


"I don’t BYO, I go to restaurants and let a fellow professional do it for me!" Marco Taddeo

"BYO definitely! While wine is reverent and artisan it is also just a drink." Chris Morrison

Published on April 20, 2008 in Wine. Closed

Light Whites

Guilt-free and delicious, these light whites are made for fun in the sun.

By Felicity Carter

With the memory of winter receding fast, it’s that time of the year when we need to get in shape for summer. Sadly, this moment happens just as the opportunities to party (and, therefore, eat and drink a lot) crank up.

At least when it comes to drinking, wines are appearing that are both drinkable and low in alcohol and calories. The first, and perhaps most readily available, of these is Hunter Valley Semillon. Very good examples of the style are also surprisingly affordable, compared to other white wines, despite the fact it’s a style highly regarded by wine experts. It’s probably because Hunter Semillon used to be searingly acidic when very young, so it got a reputation for being ‘unfriendly’. This has changed, thanks to wineries like Tyrrell’s and McWilliams, which have put some serious work into the variety over many years and have created wines that are refreshing rather than biting.

The other wine to watch out for is Moscato, a perfumed white grape that’s made in a slightly fizzy style. As well as being tasty, Moscato is generally very low in alcohol – about 5.5 percent by volume, as opposed to the 13 percent to 15 percent of other white wines. Again, even the best examples of the style are relatively inexpensive.

McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2001

This is far and away one of the finest straight Semillon produced in the world and it’s certain to impress guests who know their wines. The grapes for this wine were taken from a single vineyard and the final taste is of honey, lemon and grapefruit all in one, with an attractive aftertaste. Perfect with barbecued seafood, it will also cellar well. Price range: $40 to $50

Brown Brothers Moscato 2007

Brown Brothers of Milawa is a pioneer of unusual grape varieties in Australia. Its Moscato is light and fruity and meant to be enjoyed without fuss. The nose smells of musk and white flowers, while the palate is bright andsherbet. At just 5.5 percent alcohol, it’s ideal as an aperitif. RRP $15

Chandon ZD Brut

This is a fine sparkling wine, made with ‘zero dosage’, meaning that while it’s made in the traditional Champagne style, no sugar is added. It takes some getting used to, but once you’re hooked on the austere, minerally taste, there’s no going back. Dry and spicy. RRP $39

Published on April 20, 2008 in Wine. Closed

Summer Lovin’ Wines

Reds, whites and rosés all have their place in the backyard as well as the dining room table.

By Steven Whitbread, sommelier Four in Hand Dining Room

As the days get longer and warmer, I’m starting to look forward to firing up the barbecue and spending some time in that most Australian of dining rooms ¬- the backyard. While the beverage that will probably see most of the action is of the amber kind, red, white and rosé still has a place on the table (or picnic rug).

When finding wines to match well with barbecue fare, or just in general, a great line of thinking is to use wine like you might use a condiment, to complete and lift a dish. For example, a common garnish for fresh seafood, like prawns and oysters, is lemon. Likewise, a wine with crisp acidity and citrus flavours will also pair well with them. And, to match the richness of these foods, a little sweetness (balanced by acidity) completes the picture. Think Germanic-style Rieslings and Blanc de Blanc Champagne.

When it comes to the main event with the steaks and snags, bolder more robust flavours are called for. Most sauces we serve with meat have a fruity sweetness, juicy acidity and an element of spice involved. Our wine choices should follow suit. South Australian Shiraz and Grenache fair well, as do the wines of the southern Rhone. Don’t be afraid to chill your reds slightly on a hot day, they’ll be all the more enjoyable.

Below are a few suggestions for matching classic barbecue fare with some interesting drops.

2005 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro, Lima, Portugal RRP $23

Fresh almost spritzy acidity, lifted by clean citrus and floral aromatics. Light on the palate, but long in the finish, this wine is a great introduction to the whites of Portugal and an interesting alternative to the ever-popular Sauvignon Blanc.

Match: School prawns wrapped in lettuce with lemon and aioli.

2007 Battle of Bosworth ‘War of the Rosé’ Cabernet Rosé, McLaren Vale, SA RRP $18

This organic rosé from Joch Bosworth really delivers. Fresh strawberries, and cherries jump out of the glass and continue in the mouth finishing fresh and dry. A truly refreshing style for a hot afternoon.

Match: Grilled tuna with rocket and kipfler potato salad.

2005 Chateau Mont-Redon ‘Lirac’, Southern Rhone, France RRP $29

Throw this on ice for five before you crack it and enjoy the rich black fruits, juicy acidity and aromatic spice. It has a great fleshy mouth feel but isn’t so heavy that it’ll put you to sleep after lunch. Outstanding value.

Match: Charred steak with caramelised onions and grilled tomatoes.

Published on April 20, 2008 in Wine. Closed

Nectar of the Gods

Choosing the right dessert wine turns a great meal into a magnificent feast.

By Nick Caraturo

The French, in truth, do it best though the Italians are probably more imaginative. Surprisingly, the Germans do it most of the time, while Australians (maybe not surprisingly) are sometimes a little obvious and clumsy with it. The Americans like to imitate the French, while some say the Hungarians are the true exponents.

Of course, you knew I was talking about dessert wine! That sweet, sticky nectar of the Gods that fills the olfactory senses and coats the mouth with its viscous, sensual texture.

Nothing will impress your loved one more than your ability to choose a great bottle, so let’s have a look at a few different styles.

Botrytized wines, made from grapes affected by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, or Noble Rot, are the most common dessert wine styles. These grapes start to shrivel on the vine, resulting in a greater concentration of sugar in the grape. The most famous version of this style is Sauternes, from the Bordeaux region of France. Other French botrytis styles available are Ste-Croix-Du-Mont, Monbazillac, and Bonnezeaux. De Bortoli ‘Noble One’, first produced in the Riverina in 1982 from botrytized Semillon, was the catalyst for an explosion of similar styles from that region, which continue to this day. Australia and New Zealand, particularly Marlborough, also produce excellent botrytis Riesling. This is also the base for the famous German Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese styles. The Hungarian Tokaji however, made from the native varietal Furmint, is regarded as the most concentrated and rich of all botrytized wines.

Late harvest wines are made from grapes that are allowed to ‘over ripen’, which is simply achieved by leaving the bunches on the vine longer than normal, or by severing the cane between the trunk and the grape bunch. These wines are often as rich as a botrytis wine, but tend to have a purer fruit character.

Muscat grape, on the other hand, is used for two very different dessert wines from Italy. Moscato d’Asti, lightly sparkling and grapy, and Moscato Passito di Pantelleria from Sicily, made by laying the grapes out in the sun to semi raisin before crushing. A rare treat is the German Eiswein (ice wine), produced from grapes that are naturally frozen on the vine. The water crystals in each grape are left behind when the grapes are crushed, resulting in a concentrated juice.

For an entrée menu, try 2006 Frogmore Creek ‘FGR’ Riesling – Coal River Valley, Tasmania

In between a table wine and a dessert wine, the ‘FGR’ stands for ‘forty grams residual’; though I’m sure it really means, ‘f….. good Riesling’. Made by halting fermentation before all the sugar is converted to alcohol, this wine is an ideal match for spicy and strong-flavoured entrées.

For a Choc-Hazelnut Fondant (click here for the recipe), try Donnafugata ‘Ben Rye’ Passito di Pantelleria

It is often difficult to match dessert wines with chocolate, however this Sicilian wine overcomes that. A richly flavoured wine, with dried apricot, raisin and nutty flavours, with a very lengthy finish.

For a simply great dessert wine, try Mt Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling

An Australian classic, incredibly fragrant, with layers of citrus, vanilla and spice flavours. Lively acidity keeps the wine fresh in the mouth.

Published on April 20, 2008 in Wine. Closed

Dionysian drinking

Why wine is truly a gift from the gods.

By Patrick Haddock

The ancient Greeks were a civilized bunch, thought to be drinking wine as far back as 4000BC. Wine was so revered in fact that it was deemed a gift from the gods. They even gave this god a name; Dionysus, a creature who had the mind of a man and the instincts of a beast (sounds like any Aussie bloke huddled round the barbie to me). But really, what a wonderful thing to have invented a deity who was purely an excuse to indulge in constant partying. Festivals were held in winter months and pictures of grapes and vineyards and people binge drinking were painted on to clay and marble artifacts.

Even Ulysses on his quest to return home, used wine to gain control over Polyphemus, got him drunk and then proceeded to blind him. So the next time you use the expression "I’m blind drunk," you only have the Greeks to thank.

Wine is not drunk much in the Greece of today as it plays second fiddle to beer and ouzo in the popularity stakes. Here in Australia when it comes to matching Greek food with wines we’ve been blessed by the vinous Gods meaning, we don’t have to resort to a bottle of ouzo.

When matching Greek food with wine, think flavours of the Mediterranean; the sun-drenched olive oil ridden food will go well with lighter bodied Italian grape styles such as Barbera and Sangiovese. Tempranillo would also be a good match for the sensational barbecued lamb dishes that are native to Athens, the tannins acting as a good foil for the slow cooked flesh. The national dish of Moussaka would be happily matched with Pinot Noir, a lighter bodied Merlot or a cool-climate Cabernet. The abundant calamari dishes of the country lend themselves to aromatic white blends, such as Semillon Sauvignon. White blends from Margaret River or indeed Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills (see food match) are also a good choice.

As you can see there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to matching so go with what your instinct tells you. If you want to enjoy a few matches made in heaven then look at the wines we’ve chosen for some wonderful Greek recipes (see below) and you’ll think that Dionysus is a god worth praying to, either that or you’ll be getting blind drunk!

Riposte by Tim Knappstein The Foil Sauvignon Blanc 2007

The Adelaide Hills is the spiritual home for Sauvignon Blanc and this is the antidote to the abundant full frontal gooseberry attack of a Kiwi Savvy. It has a rich passionfruit and citrus mid palate, with clean, complexing, savoury length. More like a classic Sancerre and just the thing to cut through the oil in the sardines while complementing the citrus of the lemon. RRP $20

Food Match – Grilled Sardines

Majella The Musician Cabernet Shiraz 2006

Could there be a better red wine under $20? Majella’s second label The Musician plays like a symphony on the palate. A well tuned blend of Coonawarra Cabernet and Shiraz that offers up aromas of blackcurrant, spice and mint. A plush palate of blackfruits and integrated, silky tannins make this a fine orchestration of flavour. RRP $16-18

Food Match – Slow Cooked Lamb

Mt Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2007

Widely considered as one of Australia’s best dessert wines, Mt Horrock’s winemaker Stephanie Toole has done it again. This time she’s produced a harmonious wine that works with sweet desserts, not against them. Intense aromas of spice, vibrant citrus characters with a touch of honey. The palate has immense texture and length with a refreshing, clean acid finish. RRP $33

Food Match – Loukoumathes (Greek Doughnuts)

Published on April 20, 2008 in Wine. Closed