The quintessential Aussie grape.
By Patrick Haddock
Ahh Shiraz. Good old reliable Shiraz; the most ubiquitous of all Aussie varietals just goes from strength to strength.
It’s been growing in abundance in this country since the mid 1800s and has spread to just about every known wine region thanks to its ability to thrive in cool, warm and even hot climates.
While legend had it that Shiraz grapes came from ancient Persia, DNA testing has actually proven that it is a native grape of France. Two of the world’s most famous Shiraz appellations are found in the northern Rhone Valley: Hermitage and Côte-Rôti.
While the French refer to it as Syrah, we’ve bastardised the nomenclature and come up with the less poncy sounding Shiraz. Probably a good thing, I’d hate to think what would happen if you went into an outback pub and asked for a glass of Syrah.
Shiraz is a very vigorous growing grape. It produces large bunches of anywhere up to 130 berries per bunch, which pleases winemakers as it means they can tease juice out of every spare acre of Shiraz vines.
Australian Shiraz (particularly from the Barossa) is famous for its extraordinary fruit ripeness and its higher than average alcohol levels. For many years now, a famous American wine critic called Robert Parker has been awarding South Australian Shiraz stupidly high points out of 100 to over-extracted wines that are not far away from being fortified. While these wines make an impact at wine shows, they also make an impact on your palate; two glasses and you ain’t going nowhere.
But thanks to Australia’s vino-diversity we do subtle too. There are many regions and winemakers who are making wines more in the French mould, giving us the choice between blockbuster or finessed.
The blockbuster wines are generally from warmer regions like the Barossa Valley, Margaret River Clare or McLaren Vale and are distinctly rich, ripe and more alcoholic. Look for flavours of intense black fruits, liquorice, chocolate, and lots of glorious tannins.
The finessed wines hail from cooler climates such as the Adelaide Hills, Beechworth, Yarra Valley and Heathcote. Laden with elegance and poise this version of Shiraz is often sexy, supple and smooth. Look for characters of white pepper, plum, violets, spices and stewed meats.
When matching Shiraz with food there are a few necessary guidelines. Typically a full-bodied Shiraz will be more enjoyable with a generous slab of steak or venison, while a more delicate lighter bodied Shiraz could go with poultry, mild curries, duck or meaty fish.
So now that you know what to look for in a Shiraz, look out for these five examples in a bottle shop near you. And no matter what you end up with remember how the song goes: Que Syrah Syrah, whatever will be, will be.
Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2007 (RRP $17.99)
The Schist Rock refers to what’s under the soil in the Mount McKensie sub-region of the Eden Valley. Whatever it is, winemaker Domenic Torzi captures the true essence of a cool climate classic. It’s got deliciously spicy aromas of white pepper, with intense stewed fruits, particularly raspberry and damson. The palate is smooth, luscious and incredibly hard to resist. Seek out and sample this sexy and sublime Shiraz.
Try with: Beef Mussaman Curry
Ferngrove Shiraz 2005 (RRP $18.99)
This little gem from the Frankland River in WA stood out in a line up of Shiraz; some of which were double the price. Attractive nose of black fruits, plum and spice leading to a plush palate of blackcurrant and pepper. Multi-layered with silky tannins on the long finish makes this an incredibly approachable wine to drink now.
Try with: Roast lamb with garlic and rosemary.
Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2006 (RRP $35)
Who said the Adelaide Hills was all about Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot? I think this is one of most finessed and refined cool climate Shiraz available. Entrancing aromas of white pepper and plum with notes of violet and clove. There’s attractive spice on the formidably perfumed palate with skilled, spicy oak adding length. A luscious and well-balanced wine which will only get better with time.
Try with: Pepper and herb crusted beef
Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2006 (RRP $29)
The new wave of Barossa winemakers are breaking the mould and no one does it better than Ben Glaetzer. Sure this Shiraz has power and majesty, but it’s underpinned by a sense of restraint. A nose dominated by intense black fruits with nuances of liquorice and mocha lead to a complex palate that is layered with primary fruit, tight acids and fine tannins. Fantastic quality for the price which means that you can afford a good quality steak to match it with.
Try with: Scotch fillet
Is it more about the eating of food or the cooking of it?






