Monthly Archive for August, 2008

Shiraz

The quintessential Aussie grape.

By Patrick Haddock

 

Ahh Shiraz. Good old reliable Shiraz; the most ubiquitous of all Aussie varietals just goes from strength to strength.

It’s been growing in abundance in this country since the mid 1800s and has spread to just about every known wine region thanks to its ability to thrive in cool, warm and even hot climates.

shiraz While legend had it that Shiraz grapes came from ancient Persia, DNA testing has actually proven that it is a native grape of France. Two of the world’s most famous Shiraz appellations are found in the northern Rhone Valley: Hermitage and Côte-Rôti.

While the French refer to it as Syrah, we’ve bastardised the nomenclature and come up with the less poncy sounding Shiraz. Probably a good thing, I’d hate to think what would happen if you went into an outback pub and asked for a glass of Syrah.

Shiraz is a very vigorous growing grape. It produces large bunches of anywhere up to 130 berries per bunch, which pleases winemakers as it means they can tease juice out of every spare acre of Shiraz vines.

Australian Shiraz (particularly from the Barossa) is famous for its extraordinary fruit ripeness and its higher than average alcohol levels. For many years now, a famous American wine critic called Robert Parker has been awarding South Australian Shiraz stupidly high points out of 100 to over-extracted wines that are not far away from being fortified. While these wines make an impact at wine shows, they also make an impact on your palate; two glasses and you ain’t going nowhere.

But thanks to Australia’s vino-diversity we do subtle too. There are many regions and winemakers who are making wines more in the French mould, giving us the choice between blockbuster or finessed.

The blockbuster wines are generally from warmer regions like the Barossa Valley, Margaret River Clare or McLaren Vale and are distinctly rich, ripe and more alcoholic. Look for flavours of intense black fruits, liquorice, chocolate, and lots of glorious tannins.

The finessed wines hail from cooler climates such as the Adelaide Hills, Beechworth, Yarra Valley and Heathcote. Laden with elegance and poise this version of Shiraz is often sexy, supple and smooth. Look for characters of white pepper, plum, violets, spices and stewed meats.

When matching Shiraz with food there are a few necessary guidelines. Typically a full-bodied Shiraz will be more enjoyable with a generous slab of steak or venison, while a more delicate lighter bodied Shiraz could go with poultry, mild curries, duck or meaty fish.

So now that you know what to look for in a Shiraz, look out for these five examples in a bottle shop near you. And no matter what you end up with remember how the song goes: Que Syrah Syrah, whatever will be, will be.

torzi matthews schistTorzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2007 (RRP $17.99)

The Schist Rock refers to what’s under the soil in the Mount McKensie sub-region of the Eden Valley. Whatever it is, winemaker Domenic Torzi captures the true essence of a cool climate classic. It’s got deliciously spicy aromas of white pepper, with intense stewed fruits, particularly raspberry and damson. The palate is smooth, luscious and incredibly hard to resist. Seek out and sample this sexy and sublime Shiraz.

Try with: Beef Mussaman Curry

 

 

 

ferngrove Ferngrove Shiraz 2005 (RRP $18.99)

This little gem from the Frankland River in WA stood out in a line up of Shiraz; some of which were double the price. Attractive nose of black fruits, plum and spice leading to a plush palate of blackcurrant and pepper. Multi-layered with silky tannins on the long finish makes this an incredibly approachable wine to drink now.

Try with: Roast lamb with garlic and rosemary.

 

 

 

shaw and smith Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2006 (RRP $35)

Who said the Adelaide Hills was all about Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot? I think this is one of most finessed and refined cool climate Shiraz available. Entrancing aromas of white pepper and plum with notes of violet and clove. There’s attractive spice on the formidably perfumed palate with skilled, spicy oak adding length. A luscious and well-balanced wine which will only get better with time.

Try with: Pepper and herb crusted beef

 

 

 

glaetzer bishop Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2006 (RRP $29)

The new wave of Barossa winemakers are breaking the mould and no one does it better than Ben Glaetzer. Sure this Shiraz has power and majesty, but it’s underpinned by a sense of restraint. A nose dominated by intense black fruits with nuances of liquorice and mocha lead to a complex palate that is layered with primary fruit, tight acids and fine tannins. Fantastic quality for the price which means that you can afford a good quality steak to match it with.

Try with:
Scotch fillet

Breakfasting with Jonesy

Rockin’ the airwaves and cooking up a storm, radio host and rev-head Brendan Jones, a.k.a. Jonesy of the Jonesy and Amanda Breakfast show, shares his fly-by-the-handle culinary adventures with FoodinFocus, from chugging beers at 9am and making vindaloo curry with his kids, to where he’d take his celebrity interviewees for a night on the town. Like his morning run on the radio, it’s quite the ride…

 

By Yasmin Newman

 

Now Jonsey, I understand that you’re a rev-head. But are you also a ‘food head’?
I love things that run on petrol, but I’ve been a big fan of food for 40 years. Food is like my petrol.


Jonsy Is it more about the eating of food or the cooking of it?
Probably more the cooking. When I go out to eat, I always wonder, ‘how do they do that?’ I remember once, not to name drop, I was having beers with Luke Mangan and I asked him how they make their creamy mash so good. He told me that when you boil the potatoes, you need to rinse them first to get rid of all the starch, then you mash them up. Plus you add a heap of butter and cream…it’s always the butter and cream.

 

 

Do you often ask for tips and tricks?
Yes! Whenever I get near a chef I will always pick their brain -when I interviewed Matt Moran (there I go again with the name dropping) I made sure to ask him his tips for a good steak.

 

 

Do you put those tips into practice when cooking at home?
Yes, and I cook pretty much every night of the week.

 

 

So you’re the primary cook then?
Sure am. The story behind it is that when my wife was pregnant with my eldest son, her morning sickness would kick in at about 5pm in the afternoon, around dinnertime. Now, one can only eat 2-minute noodles for so long, so I just started to cook. I learnt more through trial and error than anything else -I started with the basics, like spaghetti, then progressed to the pastry department, then to the lasagna family, and so on.

 

So what’s the ‘Jonesy signature style’?
Simplicity. And using fresh ingredients. I’m a big fan of fresh coriander and basil – you just can’t replicate those herbs in any other form.

 

 

Do you like to spice things up in the kitchen?
I love making vindaloo curry. In fact my youngest son, who is 5 years old, has just discovered the joy of the vindaloo and making it as hot as you possibly can. If it’s not killing us, I haven’t done my job right!

 

 

So what’s your standout dish?
The one I’d serve to the Queen? Oh that’s a tough one. For an entrée, I’d make garlic prawns or salt and pepper squid. I am also a big fan of roast turkey – I love the tradition of getting a big old bird and stuffing it.

 

So are you a fly-by-the-handle on your motorbike kind of a cook, or more organized and methodical?
Definitely fly-by-the-handle. I don’t know where I got it from, but I have an uncanny talent for being able to measure without having to use measuring devices. I usually just whack it all in and hope for the best. And if my gravy is any testament, I’ve never had a gravy fail – I’ve never left a gravy behind!

 

 

So do you clean up after you’ve made this wonderful mess in the kitchen?
I actually don’t make much of a mess, but my wife does put the dishes away. I get in trouble however, for lecturing her on how to pack the dishwasher. For example, she’ll put a chopping board in there and I’ll say, ‘Oh don’t put that in there, don’t do that!’ Which makes me sound like a Nazi!

 

 

Where do you suggest she put the chopping board then?
In the oven. Just pop it in when the oven is cooling down and it’ll dry out. Just make sure the oven is switched off and it’s a wooden chopping board, otherwise you’ll have a fire on your hands!

 

 

What are two or three items that we will always find in your fridge?
Garlic, green curry paste and tomato sauce. I’m not a big fan of ketchup on my steak, but my wife likes to drown hers in it. I used to care, but I’m alright with it now. Even if I make amazing mushrooms and she drowns them in sauce, I’m ok with it now.

 

So how does you food schedule work in light of your crazy work schedule?
I get up at 3:30am, so once I get to work I eat some porridge or Weet Bix. The trap with breakfast radio is that lots of companies send food, lots of food. Like Krispy Kreme donuts. When I first started they’d send tray upon tray of donuts and Bob & Pete’s pastries too. It’s a real discipline to not eat them. The important thing to remember when working these hours is that you have to eat, but you don’t want to eat the wrong things.

 

 

So what keeps you alive during the show?
Coffee! I’ve recently cut back to just one cup per hour, which I drink scalding hot. But if you drink too much, you get to a point where you’re just so pumped up you can’t talk properly. The other person then proceeds to look at you like you’re crazy…

 

 

Do you eat on air?
From time to time, but not often. But by the time 9 o’clock runs around, you feel like you could eat a plate of nachos… and drink a beer. But I only do that four days a week (laughs). I ate a green curry at 9am once.

 

 

So tell us about the celebrities! Do you get to hang out with them?
No, not really…

 

Well hypothetically speaking then, where would you take some of your favourites interviewees?
I’d take Bono to Hotel Hollywood. Someone like Owen Wilson, you’d take to Billy the Pigs in Bondi Junction. Down my way, I’d take Matt Damon to North Cronulla Hotel and and Russel Crow to Caringbah Inn. And for Sandrah Bullock, I’d take her to Como Hilton, it’s a really great place.

 

 

And your wife, where do you like to take her for a special evening?
Helen is all about seafood. Seafood seafood seafood. We like to go to Sea Level in Cronulla. And Nick’s, she loves any of their locations.

 

 

Now we’re going to play a game where we take your regular segments on the radio show and twist them around food. First up, Dumb Is – What’s the most ridiculous dish you’ve ever made?
Yoghurt pasta.

 

 

Terrible!
I had some leftover pasta and I wanted to make a creamy style dish, but all I had in the fridge was some Greek yoghurt. I thought, ‘that’ll be fine!’ I reckon that was 8 years ago, and still, every time I serve up a creamy pasta, the kids go "Oh Dad! Is this that yoghurt pasta again?!" They never let me forget.

 

 

Fight Your Flashback – What’s something that you used to love eating, but is not so cool anymore?
Fondue. Oh and the deep fryer. I wish I had one; I have a serious love for deep fryers.

 

Mine is Chiko Rolls…
I want that to be my flashback! Can I steal that?

 

 

Gets My Goulies – What is something that is really trendy, food-wise, that you just can’t get your head around?
It used to be pine nuts; it was in everything! Now I don’t mind that so much as I do ‘jus’. And truffles. I don’t get them, I don’t get why they’re so expensive, they taste like a mushroom, that’s it.

Hemingway Special Twist

60ml Havana Club or any white rumhemingway special twist
10ml Tuaca liqueur
30ml grapefruit juice
½ lime, squeezed
20-30ml sugar syrup (varies according to concentration of sugar)

Combine all ingredients in a Boston shaker over ice. Lightly shake adding sugar syrup to taste. The sugar will take the tartness off the citric acids. Double strain and serve in a chilled martini glass. Garnish with pomegranate seeds.

Created by Kyle Heine

 

To learn more about Kyle Heine and his cocktail creations, click here now!

Tap, Twinkle and Shine

You don’t meet professional tap dancers that often. But between shaking cocktails at some of Sydney’s best known bars, Kyle Heine can be found tapping his toes in some of Sydney’s, and indeed the world’s, most prestigious dance venues. But bartending has always been an interest for Kyle, the hours and flexibility sitting in snugly with his auditions, and the hip work venues a great place to network with industry-ites. Not to mention being pretty fun.

Kyle, or "twinkle toes’ as his work mates like to call him, is your all-around man, versed in wine as much as spirits or food. As winter settles in, Kyle recommend mulled wine, a sangria type drink warmed on the coffee machine, perfect for the hands as much as the belly. But he’s also noticed a resurgence of the classics – your Manhattans, Old-Fashioned and Martinis, which he thoroughly suggests for their warmth and old-world charm. But as a fan of fresh fruit, he can’t go past throwing in a little flesh into his cocktails, like the pomegranate you’ll find in his twist on the Hemingway. It seems a little twinkle goes a long way…

 

* At time of interview, Kyle was working at Gazebo Wine Garden, 2 Elizabeth Bay Road, Elizabeth Road, 02 9357 5333

 

Recipe: Hemingway Special Twist

Sweet Dreams

By Craig Sams & Josphine Fairely

 

In a time before organics were trendy and fair trade was hip, there was a man, and his wife, who were concerned by the state our planet was in. And before the bandwagon had rolled into town and environmental marketing was pulling at our heartstrings, this man, and his wife, set out to do something, the right thing, and from the bottom of their hearts.

sweet dreams

Sweet Dreams is the inspiring and entertaining story of this couple, Craig Sams, and his wife, journalist Josephine Fairley, who set out to start the world’s first organic chocolate company, and in-turn transformed a small seed into a multi-million dollar business.

Frank and heartfelt, while the book chronicles their personal pitfalls and successes, it also documents the challenges of running an ethical company in a capitalist world. Indeed, Green & Black’s Maya Gold chocolate was the first product ever awarded Fairtrade status and their farming practices have since paved the way for businesses and companies to come. But with some of the world’s best-rated chocolate as your driving fuel, and a vision for a better world to match, for this man and his wife, it’s hard to believe that there was any ever doubt.

Random House Australia, RRP $39.95

Pistachio and Chocolate Crispy Rice Cakes

1 tablespoon butterPistachio and CHocolate Crispy Rice Cakes
1½ cups aborio rice
2 cups warm milk
1 teaspoon vanilla paste, or 1 vanilla pod
5 tablespoons sugar
1 cup pistachios, chopped
100g dark chocolate, chopped
2 eggs
vanilla ice cream to serve
extra dark chocolate for garnish

In a saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add aborio rice and stir to coat. Add the warm milk in batches, stirring occasionally until all the liquid is absorbed. This should take approx. 10 minutes. To check, taste the rice; it should be al dente. If it needs further cooking, top up with water and continue to stir. Take off the heat and add the vanilla and sugar. Set aside and allow to cool. Once room temperature, add the pistachios and chocolate and stir to combine. Mix in the two eggs. Heat a non-stick saucepan on medium heat and spoon in dollops of the rice mix. Cook till crispy on both sides. Serve warm with shaved chocolate and vanilla ice ream. Serves 6

 

Other delicious rice inspired recipes:

Persian Rice Salad

Chicken Biryani

 

Want to learn more about rice? Click here to read our fascinating article How to Cook: Rice!

Persian Rice Salad

1 cup brown ricepersian rice salad
1 cup wild rice
1 medium Spanish onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 teaspoon ground cumin
juice of 2 limes
1 teaspoon honey
1 cup roasted almond slivers
1 cup chopped dates
½ cup sultanas
½ cup toasted pine nuts
½ cup chopped parsley
½ cup chopped mint
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons chopped mint to garnish

Wash the brown rice and wild rice seperately under cold water till water is clear. In two saucepans cover each rice with cold water and cook over low heat till cooked. Rinse and drain. In a separate bowl, combine the onions, garlic, cumin, lime juice and honey and allow to marinate for 5 minutes. Add the brown and wild rice and toss together. Add the almonds, dates, sultanas and pine nuts and then the fresh herbs and olive oil. Season to taste and garnish with the mint. Serves 6

 

Other delicious rice inspired recipes:

Chicken Biryani

Pistachio and Chocolate Crispy Rice Cakes

 

Want to learn more about rice? Click here to read our fascinating article How to Cook: Rice!

Chicken Biryani

4 pieces skinless chicken legchicken biryani
1 teaspoon saffron
5 tablespoons warm milk
5 tablespoons corn or peanut oil
pinch of ground asafetida*
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds
2 tablespoons crushed garlic
3 tablespoons crushed ginger
5 tablespoons natural yoghurt
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 sticks cinnamon
5 whole cardamom pods
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained
2 medium size potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 cup frozen peas
*Optional. Available from most Indian specialty stores.

Preheat oven to 170C. In a bowl cover the saffron threads with the warm milk and set aside. Pour the oil into a large non-stick pan and heat on medium-high. Sear the chicken on both sides till brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. In the same pan sauté the asafetida, mustard seeds and cumin. As soon as the mustard seeds start popping add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Then add the yoghurt spoon by spoon till it is all absorbed. Then add the coriander, reduce the heat and add the salt, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, cardamom and lemon juice. In an ovenproof dish, add the rice, chicken pieces, spice mix, potatoes and peas and cover with 3 cups of water. Cover with a tight lid and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Serve hot with fresh coriander. Serves 6

Tip: Garnish with crispy, caramelised onions. Or for another authentic option, use lamb pieces on the bone instead of chicken.

 

Other delicious rice inspired recipes:

Persian Rice Salad

Pistachio and Chocolate Crispy Rice Cakes

 

Want to learn more about rice? Click here to read our fascinating article How to Cook: Rice!

The Amazing Rice

By Yasmin Newman

 

While nothing particularly noteworthy to look at, rice holds many claims to its name. It is one of the most widely cultivated cereal in the world, and, known of as far back as 3000 BC, it is also one its oldest. With its feverish disposition to grow in tropical, equatorial and temperate zones as well as in dry or swampy conditions, it is no surprise that rice can be found in the traditional foods of so many cultures, from Japanese to Moroccan and even African.

rice

Two varieties of the rice plant can be traced back in our culinary calendar, oryza sativa – the most well known and widespread today, and oryza glaberrina, the younger of the two. Oryza sativa is believed to have originated in southern India and then spread north into China. Over thousands of years, it continued upon its journey through Asia and became a staple in Korea, the Philippines, Japan and Indonesia. From here, various explorers, crusaders and wars brought rice to the Middle East and Europe, and in turn, cemented rice as one of the world’s most loved, and most depended upon, foods.

Rice is always eaten cooked, but it is served in a multitude of ways – you’ll find it hot and cold, either sweet or savoury, as well as an accompaniment or as a main. And while its inherent subtle flavour makes it the perfect cooking all-rounder, rice is also naturally versatile and willingly takes on the characteristics of the ingredients around it.

There are many types of rice. To get the best out of rice, and your dish, it is important to choose the right type for your purpose. Rice can be divided into different grains, as well as the processing it is given after harvesting.

 

 

Types of grain

Short grain – As the name implies, this main variety of rice has short, round grains which tend to stick together when cooked. For this reason, short grain rice is preferred in many Asian dishes, the clumped grains best for eating with chopsticks. Short grain also produces a creamy texture when cooked, and you’ll often find this type used in puddings. Italian rices such as Aborio or Vinalone Nano are good examples of short to medium-grain rices. Perfect for risottos or paellas, they are able to absorb large amounts of liquid and sustain long, slow-cooking times without becoming too soft or goop.

Medium-grain – There are a variety of medium-grains around, however many also fall on the border of short- and long-grain rice types. Generally speaking, medium-grain rice is preferred in dishes where the rice grains should be distinct but still hold together, as in croquettes or arrancini.

Long-grain – Unlike its short-grain sister, this variety retains its individual grains when cooked and remains separate. Long grain rice has an almost fluffy texture and is the first choice for plain boiled rice, as well as many savoury dishes including salads.

Fragrant-rice – These varieties fall under the above categories, however their unique and aromatic flavours make them worthy of mentioning. Think basmati, jasmine and also Thai white rice.

 

 

Types of rice

White rice – Also known as polished rice, white rice has been husked and has had its bran coating removed. It is quick to cook and easily digested.

Brown rice - Also known as husked or whole rice, brown rice is named after its characteristic beige colour. Since only the outer husk has been removed, it is more nutritious than white rice. It is also more filling and takes longer to cook. With its nutty taste, brown rice goes really well with vegetable dishes and stuffings.

Wild rice
– Actually the seed of a grass related to the rice family. It is quite expensive, but its beautiful, nutty flavour make it a popular choice for special occasions. Try mixing it with brown or white rice.

Rice flour – Made by finely grinding white rice. Suitable for baking cakes, to thicken sauces and also as a substitute for those with a gluten intolerance.

 

To experience the diversity of rice, and its different flavours and textures, we’ve put it to good use in three different recipes. For a side dish, try our Persian Rice Salad filled with a mix of wild and brown rice, and for a main an Indian chicken biryani using basmati. And let’s not forget dessert – crispy rice cakes made with aborio. Staple or not, rice, it seems, is perfect for anytime of the day and, wherever you are…

 

 

Recipes:

Persian Rice Salad

Chicken Biryani

Pistachio and Chocolate Crispy Rice Cakes

Cracking the Nut

Horticulture Australia Managing Director John Webster cracks the nut on food – from his picks in fine-dining to fresh, straight off the farm fruit.

By Yasmin Newman

 

Since graduating, you’ve always been involved in agriculture. How has this affected your view and experience of food?
It gives you higher expectations. I was actually brought up on a farm up in New England. Being involved with food from a farm level, you get to know the effort that everybody puts into the production of it; so you expect the same level when you go to restaurants.

 

John Webster

Where have you eaten in Sydney that meets these expectations?
My wife and I like to go down to Nicks at Cockle Bay. They have beautiful fresh fish and a good side salad and chips. Or for steak, Kingsleys. But Café Sydney is also pretty hard to beat – it’s beautiful food with a spectacular view of Sydney Harbour.

 

A large portion of the Horticulture Australia business comes from export agreements. When wheeling and dealing with international clients, where do you like to take them to impress?
We have one of the most spectacular harbours in the world, so I like to take them somewhere with a great view, like Banjo Pattersons up in Gladesville. But if it’s more for the food than the view, I like Est.

 

How often do you find yourself eating out?
That’s a hard question – my waistline tells me more often than perhaps I should! At least once a week, sometimes more.

As managing director of Horticulture Australia, you’ve seen the company grow around 70% to 84 billion dollar in annual budget. I take it you’re working some pretty hefty hours – what foods do you like to treat yourself to, to reward your efforts?
For me, it’s not so much the food as the experience. If I’m rewarding myself, it’s hopefully with my wife at a nice restaurant. And you mustn’t forget the wine that goes with it!

 

How about your wife, how does she like to reward herself?
For her it is chocolate. When we’re at a restaurant she starts at the dessert menu, works out what she’s going to have and then works backwards!

Working within the agricultural industry has obviously given you a holistic understanding of food. Do you take a holistic approach to eating?
Being involved in these types of organizations has given me an appreciation for nature – nature gives us such a wide array of fruits, vegetables, grains, nuts and meat. I firmly believe that a diet is something that contains a good balance across all of those food groups. The only thing that has changed over time is that we no longer do sufficient exercise. There should be an even balance, not these extreme diets.


You’ve held senior management positions in strategic planning, research and marketing. Do you take an equally regimented approach when cooking or is it a more relaxed affair?
I’m not a recipe type person, I like to wing it! I was lucky growing up on the farm -we had Italian share farmers and from a very early age they taught us flavour. The European influence was fantastic and I’ve always enjoyed cooking. When we have guests, it’s actually me who cooks. My wife tends to cook all the other times.

 

What is your favourite ingredient to cook with and why?
It sounds wrong from someone working in the fruit and veggie industry but I just love cooking roasts! Either lamb or beef and with all the vegetables with it.

 

Is food as important to you personally, as it is professionally?
To be honest, it’s more important professionally. I certainly enjoy food, but I’m not a foodie. I’m happy to take the lead from foodie friends, to follow their coat tails and get the benefit from it. My biggest concern is when food that has been placed in front of us hasn’t been well looked after and to me that’s not acceptable.


What are your thoughts on the organic movement?

I don’t get too involved in organic. I’m not anti in any way, but for me, knowing the quality of what’s produced commercially, I don’t have the incentive to chase organic.

 

 

Quick Bites

Favourite place for breakfast? Home. It’s a bit sad, but my breakfast is a bowl cereal and then a cup of coffee at Bambino Trust Café.

Favourite place for lunch?
Unfortunately I don’t get that much time for lunch. I usually grab something on the run, from sushi to a sandwich.

Favourite place for a lazy brunch? Now that’s more enjoyable! We like to go to Glebe and stroll along until we see somewhere we like.

And dessert? I’m more an entrée and main course man. For me, you can’t go past fresh fruit.