Monthly Archive for December, 2008

Salerno comes to Sydney – Perfect Pasta

 

Salerno PastaThere is nothing as good as being surrounded by a team of Italian chefs. Especially when they can’t speak any English and are crooning away in Italian about their first love – food from their native region, Salerno. These incredible chefs cooked up a storm at Il Locale in Haberfield during a promotion of their beautiful area at the launch of the Giffoni Film Festival.

 

The menu was traditional, using hand-made pasta from the Gragnano region and beautiful tomatoes from the Nocera territory. These areas are found in the South of Italy and the produce is exceptional (I was sent home with a DIY meal and it turned out so well I thought of relocating).

 

The plump al-dente pasta was served with a traditional Napolitana sauce and was followed by a meatball dish equally smothered in the delicious tomato sauce. The main course of roast pork with rustic potato was simple and rustic. I could have been sitting in the Gragnano region at someone’s home.

 

The meal was finished off with a spectacular chocolate caprese that was textured and nestled beautifully in subtle light custard. If you do see product, especially pasta, from this region do have a go at using it – I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Images taken by Manlio Castagn

 

Salerno Caprese

 

 

 

 

Oh Shucks it’s Oyster Time

I had the marvellous privilege of having fish expert John Susman on our radio show on Saturday and he kindly shucked some very good oysters for the team. Gus Lander, our on-air wine expert brought in some excellent wines and we had a wonderful end-of-year party.

Oyster kitMost generously, John provided me with my own shucking knife and board (go to www.kinkawooka.com.au to order your own kit) and when I came home I managed to shuck ten of my own. Apparently it’s very sexy to see a woman shuck oysters. I am not so sure, but I was very proud of my achievement.

The oyster is a magnificent food and nothing captures the taste of the sea or the skill of the farmer quite as much. Simply put, there is no other food that can excite the senses as much as a freshly opened oyster. Opening oysters, however, is a social skill akin to being able to un-cork a bottle of champagne or make an omelette. With the right equipment, these instructions and a little practice you will soon have a culinary skill you thought was only available in a restaurant.

First tip is to make sure your oysters are cold. Keep them unopened, at the bottom of the fridge, or place the pack under ice for 30 minutes before you start. Have an oyster knife, clean cloth and sturdy board at the ready.

Step 1 – The Basics

  • Take an oyster, and with the cup of the shell facing down, wrap it in a clean cloth with the pointed hinge of the oyster facing outwards.
  • Place the cloth on a stable surface, and hold down firmly.Insert the oyster knife into the hinge where the top and bottom shells meet at approximately 7 o’clock.
  • Moving the knife in a rhythmical, rocking motion, push the knife well into the hinge until it is firmly wedged between the top and bottom shell.

    Step 2 – The Hard Part

    • With the oyster knife wedged between the top and bottom shell, hold the oyster in the cloth firmly.
    • Twist the oyster knife sharply, as if accelerating on a motorcycle, and listen for the ‘pop’ as the hinge gives way.
    • The hard part of opening the oyster is now complete!

      Step 3 – Lids Off

      • With the hinge now broken slide the oyster knife gently along the top lid.
      • At the two o’clock position on the top lid is the abductor muscle that holds the top and bottom shells together.
      • Simply slide the oyster knife through this muscle to release the top shell.

        Step 4 – The Finish

        • Having removed the top lid, snip the abductor muscle on the bottom shell to release the oyster. If you want, you can turn the oyster over to have its ‘belly’ facing up (like they do in the shops with pre-shucked oysters).
        • Try to keep as much of the oysters natural liquor in the shell as possible –
          it’s delicious, and is one of the things that makes a freshly ‘shucked’ oyster taste so good.

         

        The oysters are now ready to serve – place them on a bed of ice or salt to stop them tipping over and ENJOY!

            Oyster Opening step 1Oyster Opening step 2Oyster Opening step 3Oyster Opening step 4Oyster Opening step 5Oyster Opening step 6

          Prawn Cocktail

          Serves FourPrawn Cocktail

          Ingredients
          12 x plump extra large king prawns/tiger prawns (approx 50g each)

          For the garnish

          ½ crisp iceberg lettuce
          One red capsicum
          Clove of garlic, sprig of rosemary and thyme, splash of extra virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar
          ¼ thin baguette
          ¼ frissee lettuce
          Pinch of cayenne pepper

          For the sauce

          4 extra large tbs thick mayonnaise
          1 tablespoon tomato ketchup
          Good splash of the following: brandy, Grand Marnier and Worcestershire sauce
          Small splash of Tabasco. (If you like it spicy add as much as you like!)

           

           

           

          Method
          Remove the head and shell from the prawns. Remove the spine, by cutting down the back and pulling out with your knife. Rinse in ice-cold salted water, and dry well. Place in fridge until needed.

          Cut the capsicum in half and remove the seeds. Cover with salt, pepper, olive oil, vinegar, garlic and thyme and place in oven on 150c for around 45 minutes until almost soft. Peel while warm and slice into thin strips. Drizzle strips with remaining juices and place in the fridge. Add another pinch of salt if needed.

          Wash the iceberg well and spin dry. Slice very fine and then place in the fridge. Mix all of the ingredients for the sauce together, and season to taste. Slice the baguette thinly, place onto a tray and drizzle with a little olive oil. Bake until golden brown then allow to cool. Prepare the frissee by removing all the green bits and leaving the golden bits; wash and spin dry. Place the shredded lettuce in the bottom of the four martini glasses and top with the plump prawns. Arrange the peppers and frissee around the prawns and cover with the sauce. Place croutons on top, add a pinch of cayenne pepper and serve.

           

          Recipe by Guest Chef Justin North, Owner Chef- Becasse & Etch

          Starting from Scratch and Meals in Minutes

          Starting from ScratchMeals in MinutesReviewed by Corby-Sue

           

          Having long been a fan of Sharon Glass’s  ‘simply delicious’ recipes, I was somewhat sceptical as to whether she could improve on her first three-book series.  Fortunately, Sharon hasn’t attempted to do this.  Instead, in these two new books she shares with the home cook everything they really want to know. In Starting from Scratch she serves up a skill set for the kitchen, and in Meals in Minutes the demands of a time-poor world are addressed.

           

          Starting from Scratch is an invaluable, easy-to-read guide into the various elements that make up a successful meal.  From classic recipes such as hearty minestrone, to the more daunting task of making a Béarnaise sauce, Sharon’s methods and tips are clear and helpful.  I have already seen a client give this book to her young teenage daughter with the words, “Here my darling, let Sharon show you what mummy couldn’t!”

           

          At first glance, Meals in Minutes seems almost too simple. But when I asked a friend to have a look and test a couple of the recipes we discovered that this little gem really does deliver!  Dinner was made for me (for a change), and we found that the recipes do work and that the prep and cooking times are spot on too. Despite their enticing colour photos these compact little books aren’t designed for the coffee table. Instead, like any good, well-used cookbooks, they should end up in your kitchen with a dusting of flour and buttery thumbprints. Enjoy!

           

          Reon Wilsenach gets Meaty

          by Corby Sue

           

          It was a Saturday afternoon, like any other.  How was I to know that my life was to change forever? Okay, okay, maybe a little dramatic. But the truth is, I had never, (gosh am I really admitting this as I am a Chef?) ever been willing to try that much revered South African delicacy, Biltong. Somehow seasoned dried meat just never inspired and I was amazed at the passion with which those in the know would tsk tsk at me…now I get it!  

          Reon Wilsenach of Springbok Delights is the passion behind the meat!  After taking one look at his warm charming face, I was too embarrassed to not accept his gracious offer of 2kg of this seasoned gold. Excellent choice.  Reon, along with his wife Lindy, decided to call Sydney home some 11 years ago, and brought with them their knowledge of the unique flavours found in so many South African meat products.

           Reon Wilsenach

           

          With an emphasis on all things South African, Springbok Delights have been servicing a loyal clientele from their recently expanded Butchery, Small Goods and Liquor Boutique on Mowbray Road in Lane Cove.  However, to keep up with the growing demand from some of Sydney’s best Grill houses, they also added a busy factory in Mascot where they prepare, amongst other items, the popular sausage boerwoers, and it’s dried counterpart drywoers.  

          Some say ‘seeing is believing’, whereas a foodie would suggest that ‘tasting is believing’.  In this case,  I would have to say that our humble studio was witness to both.  I, Natascha and Sean Connelly (yes, as in Seans Kitchen and Astral!) could not stop ourselves from the steady stream of, well, stuffing our face with the salty, slightly sweet yet aromatic biltong!  Between songs there was much adulation and even more serious stuffing! 

           

          So what is the moral of the story?  Well apart from dispelling mum’s golden rule of not accepting gifts from strange men, I would hardly call Reon strange,  I want to encourage each and every one of you to try something that you have discounted in the past.  Who knows what you will discover in your future!

           

          Springbok Delights is located at 656 Mowbray RD, Lane Cove NSW 2066 T: (02) 9427 5168 

          Sean Connolly

          From fine dining at Astral, to the Mediterranean overtones of Sean’s Kitchen, to the hot seat on my show, Executive Chef Sean Connolly certainly knows how to entertain.

           

          By Natascha Moy

           

          Sean Connolly is a scream. He has the cheekiest smile and the most boyish charm, and this was totally evident when he joined us in the studio for last week’s radio show on 89.7FM Eastside Radio. I have been very fortunate to have had some of Sydney’s top chefs on my show this past year and while all of them have been great interviews, none have made me laugh as much as Sean.

           Sean's Kitchen

          Sean Connolly’s award accolade reads like a school graduation ceremony:

          Chef’s Hat, 2007 & 2008 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Awards
          Chef of the Year, 2008 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Awards
          One star, Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2006, 2007, 2008 2009
          Chef of the Year, 2006, 2007 & 2008 Australian Hotels Association NSW Awards for Excellence
          Best Restaurant of the Year, 2007 AHA NSW Awards
          Best Fine Dining Restaurant in a Hotel, Restaurant & Catering Awards for Excellence NSW & ACT 2007

           

          The best of all however is being recognized by GQ as Chef of the Year along with Hugh Jackman (Man of the Year), Baz Luhrmann, (Creative Force of the Year), Daniel MacPherson (TV Personality of the Year) and the late Heath Ledger (Actor of the Year). My understanding is that I was very lucky indeed to have the man in person on my show as he usually only does phone interviews. So, to have him sitting opposite me, managing to almost demolish the entire bag of biltong that Reon Wisenache had brought with him for us to try was a huge coup. Sean loved the biltong and you may well see it on the menu at Sean’s Kitchen one day soon.

           

          Sean is a master in the kitchen and has been the Head Chef of Astral, Star City’s fine dining restaurant since 1995. The food at Astral is imaginative and his superior technique is evident in his dishes. The private dining room, which boasts 270-degree views, and has hosted many celebrities, is where Sean creates his magic. Here he is able to offer a bespoke menu fit for royalty.

           

          Celebrity chef Michael Moore who owns Summit, who we have also had on our show and who is a good friend of Gordon F Ramsay has spent two romantic dinners up on this top-floor private oasis, so it really must be good!

           

          Sean has just embarked on his latest venture called Sean’s Kitchen (see the review click here). This new and challenging endeavour has made him busier and happier than ever. He is master of his own destiny and moves around his restaurants like a magician making sure that everything is in perfect harmony.

           

          His introduction into food as the only boy in the Home Economics class (I did ask if he did this just to get the girls) has placed him on a great path, and as with most of my guests, he thinks he is very lucky, “I never work a day, I just spend everyday doing what I love.”

           

          While being interviewed Sean had a momentary lapse of reason and when teased about his answer he let out a cheeky grin and we all doubled up laughing… definitely not a man to take things too seriously. He is one of my favourites… especially as I am a confirmed chef groupie.  I have no doubt that Sean will continue to entertain us with his fabulous food and his easy charm and I look forward to the next installment of his career.

           

          Sean’s Kitchen and Astral are located at Star City, 80 Pyrmont NSW, 2009 (02) 9777 9000

          Wine Pick of the Week

          TapanappaTapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Cabernet Shiraz 2005

           

          If you’ve got a special occasion coming up you’d want a wine like this. If you haven’t, buy it anyway and put it in the cellar as the legendary Brian Croser is responsible.

           

          This is a grand wine with its head nodding towards the aristocratic wines of France but its heart is distinctively Australian. There’s lifted blackcurrant fruit on the nose with violets, spice and a whiff of meaty jus. The palate is wonderfully soft with a black fruit core, notes of cedar and leather ending with great length and persistence. A wine with a sense of place and that place is in my cellar!

           

          Try with Lamb studded with garlic and rosemary and a rich meat reduction

           

          RRP $70

           

          Lamb and Cherry Tagine

          Lamb and Cherry TagineServes 4

          800g lamb shoulder, boned and diced
          1 tablespoon olive oil
          8 pickled onions
          3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
          3 teaspoons fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
          1 cinnamon stick
          2 teaspoons coriander seeds
          2 bay leaves
          2 teaspoons paprika powder
          6 dried apricots, chopped
          600 – 800 ml vegetable stock
          400g chick peas, canned
          350g fresh cherries, pitted
          Salt
          1 tablespoon almond flakes, toasted
          1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped

          Place meat and oil in a large heavy-based saucepan.
          Add onions, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, bay leaf, paprika and apricots and toss together over medium heat, then pour in 600 ml of stock.
          Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, then cover and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
          Meanwhile rinse chick peas in a sieve under cold water until the water runs clear.
          Add chick peas and cherries to the tagine.
          You may also need to add a little more liquid at this point. Simmer for about 30 minutes or until meat is tender. Season with salt.
          Serve in a traditional tagine dish if you like.
          Sprinkle with toasted almond flakes and parsley before serving.
          Serve with buttery couscous.

          Cherry Chutney

          Cherry Chutney(makes about 2 ½ cups)

           

          350ml red wine vinegar
          350g caster sugar
          40g ginger, peeled and chopped
          1 cinnamon stick
          4 gloves
          1 onion, peeled and chopped finely
          100 g dried apricots, chopped
          2 apples, peeled and seeded and cut into small pieces
          700 g fresh cherries, pitted
          1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
          1/2 teaspoon salt

           

          Heat vinegar and sugar in a large saucepan stirring occasionally until sugar has dissolved.
          Add ginger, cinnamon, gloves, onions, apricots and apples and let simmer for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
          Add cherries and simmer for another 40-50 minutes or until it thickens and becomes syrupy.
          Stir in salt and nutmeg.
          Remove from the heat and allow to stand for 15 minutes.
          Spoon into sterilized jars.
          Seal with lid and refrigerate until ready to use.

           

          Goats Cheese and Rocket Salad with Cherry Dressing

          (4 servings)

          • 4 tablespoons olive oil
          • 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
          • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
          • Salt
          • Pepper
          • Sugar
          • 8 fresh cherries, pitted and quartered
          • 300g rocket
          • 50g pine nuts
          • 300g fresh goats cheese in a log
          • 3 tablespoon cornflakes
          • 2 teaspoons oil
          • 3 green onions, finely sliced
          Crumbed Goats Cheese w Cherry

          Crumbed Goats Cheese w Cherry

          In a bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar and mustard to make a dressing. Season with salt, pepper and sugar and stir trough the cherries, set aside.
          Rinse rocket and spin dry. Heat a small frying pan and dry roast pine nuts until golden brown.
          Cut cheese into about 2cm wide discs.
          Place cornflakes in a sealed lunch bag and crush with your fingers.
          Place cornflakes on a plate and press cheese with both sides into cornflakes.
          Heat oil in a non stick frying pan and brown the cheese on both sides.
          Place cheese on paper towel, then arrange with the salad on a plate.
          Scatter over the onions, pine nuts and dressing and serve immediately.